Found info dating the 82001 engine to 1961

I was looking at an old Power Bee manual trying to find a part number when I noticed that it dated the 82001 engine as being originally built in 1961. Until now the earliest 82001 build documentation I could find was from March of 1962. Since the engine serial number is 1017 I suspect this is the 17th 82001 engine built and it was probably built in 1961. Possibly the MK0 is a 1961 bike???

Another HL-134A to look at

Don Junoska sent me a HL-134A carb that he thinks came off of a piece of small railroad equipment; rail saw, rail drill or impact wrench. This is the same model that my MK0 82001 engine came with and has a few special parts that I have only seen on this model Tillotson. It has an intact 2 screw throttle shaft which is what I broke trying to straighten on my MK0 carb. It still has the gold paint that I found under the yellow and Hunter green paint on the MK0 HL-134A carb.

My Tillotson application list shows that the HL-134A was used on 61001, 61002, 82001 and 82002 go kart engines. The 61001(CW) and 61002(CCW) were 99.9 CC iron sleeved engines built for a 100 CC go kart racing class. The 82001(CW) and 82002(CCW) were Chrome plated bore Aluminum engines. All 4 engines look the same from the outside and use a lot of the same parts.

The air filter base has the same hack job off center modification that my MK0 has so I am less inclined to blame the Nethercutt crew for this.

Vespa selector showed up

The 4 speed Vespa shift selector showed up yesterday and I held it up in front of the Plunger shifter to get some idea of how much work I have gotten myself into. I thought I was going to have to move the clutch brake but the selector has to be spaced out about an inch and a half from the Plunger gearbox so the brake can stay where it is. The left side mounting bolt can be fastened to the clutch brake mounting bracket. I will have to make a simple bracket to fasten the right side mounting bolt.


I started looking at my MK8 trying to figure out how to mount the shifter, run the cables and quickly noticed that the frame is cracked again.

This is the 3rd or 4th crack in this frame not counting the Autograb cracks. This will get repaired when the Plunger gearbox is out of the frame.

Plunger gearbox reverse and shift on the fly modifications

Back 2012 I started a project to install a reverse chain drive and shift on the fly shifter on my 1997 Rokon Ranger. The reverse modification is documented here in Bob Gallaghers Rokon World message Board. Reverse has been working since August 30th 2012 with one minor shifter issue not related to the reverse drive. I wanted to test drive it a bit to make sure reverse held up before I started on the shift on the fly part of the project. I figure 9 years is long enough so I started looking again at shifters that could be modified to fit. Hodakas and Yamaha scooters use the same design ball shifter as my 1974 Rokon gearbox. Both of their shifters are large and complicated. Vespas use a cross shaped shift selector that works the same as the newer #17 Rokon tang shift selectors. Vespas have a very compact and simple cable operated shift selector that looks much easier to adapt to a Rokon.

This is a 4 speed Vespa shift selector that has a neutral between 1st and 2nd. On the 3 speed Plunger gearbox the neutral will be between reverse and first.

Pelton wheel generator

20 some years ago I built a micro hydro generator to power saws and lights to build my house. One of the batteries failed about 10 years ago and the system has sat idle until I decided to check into running it again due to alleged federal incentives for green energy production.

The generator is a 10A, DC permanent magnet windmill unit. The Pelton wheel has a 2″ radius to aim the water jet at. The jet is just a 1/2″ NPT pipe plug with a 1/4″ hole drilled in it. During a drought I can go down as small as a 1/8″ diameter jet and it will still run. The penstock is about 600 feet long and has an 81 foot drop producing 35 PSI at the generator.

The inverter is a 5000 watt, 110V AC output, 24V DC input modified sine wave unit. The diversion load charge controller is below the Telco box. The charge controller diverts power when the 2 8D batteries are fully charged. You can’t just turn off the power because the wheel will overspeed. The 2 black cables in the upper right go down to the generator. Instead of using a generator disconnect to hook the inverter up to I put together a cable that takes the 2 110V inverter outputs and connects them to both legs of the 220V breaker box. You have to make sure the 200A main is off so you are not connected to the grid. This connection will power the 110V stuff in the house but not the 220V range or dryer. I installed a 110V well pump instead of a 220V unit. Electronic stuff does not like modified sine waves.

Bobsy Formula Vee Registry

I have created a registry for Bobsy Formula Vees. Jerry Mong began producing racing cars near the close of the 1950’s. Mong then developed a successful line of Formula Vee race cars during the mid-1960’s. The Bobsy Vanguard was built from 1964 to 1966 and the Vega was built from 1967 to 1968.The table represents the best information I have at this time.  New information is welcome as I continue to document the survivors.  Please feel free to contact me with any new information or questions.

More fluid drive info

I started researching an odd ball Nethercutt fluid drive for a Message Board member and came up with more washing machine fluid drives. Looks like they were used on Maytag, Amana and Simpson washing machines from the 1950s through the 1980s.

The top picture is a Simpson and the bottom is an Amana. These look a lot more like the engine mounted MK0 fluid drive than the Albion mounted MK1 fluid drives.

Obviously it is not the same casting but the size and fins appear to be very similar. I doubt there is a one way bearing also. These are also mounted as a driver the same as the MK0 instead of a driven like on the MK1s and MK2s. They are also available on Ebay at reasonable prices. One nice feature is that they are bolted together instead of welded together like all of my MK0 and MK1 fluid drives.