Found info dating the 82001 engine to 1961

Posted on October 1, 2021 by David Fillman

I was looking at an old Power Bee manual trying to find a part number when I noticed that it dated the 82001 engine as being originally built in 1961. Until now the earliest 82001 build documentation I could find was from March of 1962. Since the engine serial number is 1017 I suspect this is the 17th 82001 engine built and it was probably built in 1961. Possibly the MK0 is a 1961 bike???

Another HL-134A to look at

Posted on July 2, 2021 by David Fillman

Don Junoska sent me a HL-134A carb that he thinks came off of a piece of small railroad equipment; rail saw, rail drill or impact wrench. This is the same model that my MK0 82001 engine came with and has a few special parts that I have only seen on this model Tillotson. It has an intact 2 screw throttle shaft which is what I broke trying to straighten on my MK0 carb. It still has the gold paint that I found under the yellow and Hunter green paint on the MK0 HL-134A carb.

My Tillotson application list shows that the HL-134A was used on 61001, 61002, 82001 and 82002 go kart engines. The 61001(CW) and 61002(CCW) were 99.9 CC iron sleeved engines built for a 100 CC go kart racing class. The 82001(CW) and 82002(CCW) were Chrome plated bore Aluminum engines. All 4 engines look the same from the outside and use a lot of the same parts.

The air filter base has the same hack job off center modification that my MK0 has so I am less inclined to blame the Nethercutt crew for this.

More fluid drive info

Posted on January 2, 2021 by David Fillman

I started researching an odd ball Nethercutt fluid drive for a Message Board member and came up with more washing machine fluid drives. Looks like they were used on Maytag, Amana and Simpson washing machines from the 1950s through the 1980s.

The top picture is a Simpson and the bottom is an Amana. These look a lot more like the engine mounted MK0 fluid drive than the Albion mounted MK1 fluid drives.

Obviously it is not the same casting but the size and fins appear to be very similar. I doubt there is a one way bearing also. These are also mounted as a driver the same as the MK0 instead of a driven like on the MK1s and MK2s. They are also available on Ebay at reasonable prices. One nice feature is that they are bolted together instead of welded together like all of my MK0 and MK1 fluid drives.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/23669-Speed-Queen-Washer-Fluid-Drive-Assembly-NEW-Old-Stock-From-late-1980s-OEM/333792016963

Look who stopped by to say hello.

Posted on December 5, 2020 by David Fillman

We did not have enough time for a ride but it was nice to socially distant meet her in person.

Lyn goes by shadetreeCT on the Rokonworld Message Board.

Updated comparison picture

Posted on September 4, 2020 by David Fillman

I forgot that I wanted to swap out the first pictures of the MK0 with the finished pictures in the combo shot of the 6 prototypes.

Here is the best info I have on the 6 prototypes:

Tank decals

Posted on June 28, 2020 by David Fillman

I added the cool tank decals to my website for free downloading.Thanks Milo.

We have only seen these decals on my MK0 and one of the Maico-Engray powered prototypes.

MK0 vs MK1 Handlebar Comparison

Posted on June 20, 2020 by David Fillman

I believe the handlebars are from a BSA Bantam D1 and D3. They are still available new but the brazed on perches are a bit different on the new ones. MK0 on the right, MK1 on the left.

Both my MK1s and the MK0 have the same bars with English Doherty grips and twist throttle. I put a wider Aluminum bar on the Rust Bucket MK1 because I was riding it daily for awhile and the narrow BSA bars beat me up too much. I am trying to find a chrome plating shop. Eventually I want to get the Rust Bucket MK1 back to original.

More MK0/MK1 handlebar pics.

The kill switch is drilled and tapped on the left side of the MK0 bar and the same kill switch is clamped the right side of the MK1 bar.

Parking Brake

Posted on June 13, 2020 by David Fillman

I know this is not original but I install parking brakes on all of our bikes due to the steep terrain we ride on. I first saw an improvised parking brake on a barn find MK4 auto bike about 15 years ago. I was able to identify it as an exhaust hanger o-ring from a Volvo P1800 2 seat sports car. The P1800 was built from 1961 to 1973 so at least the o-ring is period correct.

I store the o-ring on the left side since it falls off on the right side due to the throttle cable. The left side has the clutch lever. The brake lever is on the right.

I have been using these on our MK1s for years. The MK1s have the brake lever on the left. This really screws me up when I jump off the MK1 and onto the MK0.

I can store it on the left side with the brake lever on the MK1s.

I use a Yamahaha quad parking brake on our MK3 and MK4 bikes.

I retrofit the Yamahaha parking brake trinket to the original Magura brake lever on my MK8 bike.

U-joint installed

Posted on May 30, 2020 by David Fillman

The u-joints were both worn out in my MK1s so this is the first functional example of an early u-joint I have come across. It has a grease fitting that is accessible through the fishmouth.