Don Junoska sent me a HL-134A carb that he thinks came off of a piece of small railroad equipment; rail saw, rail drill or impact wrench. This is the same model that my MK0 82001 engine came with and has a few special parts that I have only seen on this model Tillotson. It has an intact 2 screw throttle shaft which is what I broke trying to straighten on my MK0 carb. It still has the gold paint that I found under the yellow and Hunter green paint on the MK0 HL-134A carb.
My Tillotson application list shows that the HL-134A was used on 61001, 61002, 82001 and 82002 go kart engines. The 61001(CW) and 61002(CCW) were 99.9 CC iron sleeved engines built for a 100 CC go kart racing class. The 82001(CW) and 82002(CCW) were Chrome plated bore Aluminum engines. All 4 engines look the same from the outside and use a lot of the same parts.
The air filter base has the same hack job off center modification that my MK0 has so I am less inclined to blame the Nethercutt crew for this.
I started researching an odd ball Nethercutt fluid drive for a Message Board member and came up with more washing machine fluid drives. Looks like they were used on Maytag, Amana and Simpson washing machines from the 1950s through the 1980s.
The top picture is a Simpson and the bottom is an Amana. These look a lot more like the engine mounted MK0 fluid drive than the Albion mounted MK1 fluid drives.
Obviously it is not the same casting but the size and fins appear to be very similar. I doubt there is a one way bearing also. These are also mounted as a driver the same as the MK0 instead of a driven like on the MK1s and MK2s. They are also available on Ebay at reasonable prices. One nice feature is that they are bolted together instead of welded together like all of my MK0 and MK1 fluid drives.
I believe the handlebars are from a BSA Bantam D1 and D3. They are still available new but the brazed on perches are a bit different on the new ones. MK0 on the right, MK1 on the left.
Both my MK1s and the MK0 have the same bars with English Doherty grips and twist throttle. I put a wider Aluminum bar on the Rust Bucket MK1 because I was riding it daily for awhile and the narrow BSA bars beat me up too much. I am trying to find a chrome plating shop. Eventually I want to get the Rust Bucket MK1 back to original.
More MK0/MK1 handlebar pics.
The kill switch is drilled and tapped on the left side of the MK0 bar and the same kill switch is clamped the right side of the MK1 bar.
I know this is not original but I install parking brakes on all of our bikes due to the steep terrain we ride on. I first saw an improvised parking brake on a barn find MK4 auto bike about 15 years ago. I was able to identify it as an exhaust hanger o-ring from a Volvo P1800 2 seat sports car. The P1800 was built from 1961 to 1973 so at least the o-ring is period correct.
I store the o-ring on the left side since it falls off on the right side due to the throttle cable. The left side has the clutch lever. The brake lever is on the right.
I have been using these on our MK1s for years. The MK1s have the brake lever on the left. This really screws me up when I jump off the MK1 and onto the MK0.
I can store it on the left side with the brake lever on the MK1s.
I use a Yamahaha quad parking brake on our MK3 and MK4 bikes.
I retrofit the Yamahaha parking brake trinket to the original Magura brake lever on my MK8 bike.
I decided to put the bike back together and take a picture to compare it with the old Panama Swamp Fox II picture. I still need to go through the Albion, do something with the chrome, clean up the wheels and exhaust better but I need to ride it.