I added the cool tank decals to my website for free downloading.Thanks Milo.

We have only seen these decals on my MK0 and one of the Maico-Engray powered prototypes.

The u-joints were both worn out in my MK1s so this is the first functional example of an early u-joint I have come across. It has a grease fitting that is accessible through the fishmouth.

Here is the patent drawing showing the u-joint.

My collection of junk early u-joints. 2 came from my MK1s. Not sure how I got 2 more. None have provision for a grease fitting.

I added the stickers Milo gave me and tried to do a comparison shot with the old Power Bee News flyer.

I decided to put the bike back together and take a picture to compare it with the old Panama Swamp Fox II picture. I still need to go through the Albion, do something with the chrome, clean up the wheels and exhaust better but I need to ride it.

The old MK0 picture shows what looks like a quarter turn gas cap on the bike. This bike has what I suspect is a replacement MK2 gas tank because it has no green paint underneath the yellow and a fine thread MK2 plastic gas cap. I also suspect the original gas tank, wheels and muffler came from the 4a Maico bike which also shows a quarter turn gas cap. Since the fork was tweaked about 5 degrees from a misadventure it is not difficult to believe that the gas tank got damaged and was replaced at some point.

I am not sure why there are disk grinder marks all around the gas cap filler neck. I decided to look into a period correct replacement cap and came up with a late 1950’s Harley cap and filler bung that looks real close.

I took careful measurements and figured out what size hole saw to use. I turned down one of my old fine thread gas caps that I have been using as a painting mask to fit closely inside the hole saw. I also drilled a quarter inch pilot hole in the cap to help guide the hole saw. I screwed the modified cap to the filler neck.

Harley filler neck test fit.

Hole saw.

Ready to be brazed.

The exhaust system is a welded fabrication that matches the exhaust port on the Power Bee block quite well. It was fastened with 2 5/16-18 UNC hex head bolts with 1/2″ hexes. The top one was easy to get to but the bottom one is a project requiring quarter turns with an open end wrench. I have been trying to use the original hardware wherever I can but this manifold needs my A1237 stud kit big time. The stud kit reduces the chances of cross threading and or stripping the engine block threads. The 3/8″ hex jetnut (rated for Mach 2) allows using a box end wrench in this tight location. The jetnuts are self locking but I like to run a tap through them because I am old and have no patience.