Albion

Since the Albion is working correctly I decided to not rebuild it at this time. I cleaned it up on my Scotchbrite wheel and tightened up the bolts. It is leaking at the kick start and input shaft so I will keep an eye on the fluid level. There is nothing weird about it. We have seen plenty of these handclutch units before. I will detail the clutch sometime soon.

Albion right side shift lever

We have seen these before on handclutch MKDs. They cut off a BJ 11 left side shift lever and brazed it to a EJ 47 side lever. Later Nethercutts and Rokons use a longer EJ 47c side lever. It was painted Hunter green on the EJ 47 end and still had the original chrome on the BJ 11 end.

It is fastened with a EJ 48 nut that has a 3/8-26 BSC (British Standard Cycle) thread.

The old MK0 picture looks like a black G 91a shifter knob was used so I went with that. Both of my MK1s had wooden G91c shifter balls.

Front chain adjusting bolts

I noticed when I picked the bike up that the front wheel was near the bottom of it’s adjustment. It also sat higher than my MK1s so I decided to take out a link or 2 to lower it so I could get my feet flat on the ground.

Turns out the adjusting bolts only had 3 or 4 threads engaged. I removed 2 links which dropped the bike 1/2″ and replaced the original bolts with my A1400 bolts that are fully threaded to allow more adjustment.

I rode the bike this way until I completely took it apart. I will see if I can put the originals back in since they will have another 1/2″ of engagement. They may not work since they are not fully threaded and used much thicker nuts instead of jam nuts.

Bushing facing and reaming.

I used one of my toy lathes to face off .031″ on both bushings. The flanges now measure .094″ thick.

I installed the bottom bushing using a vise. It was a heavy press fit and it squeezed the bore of the bushing down to .621″ The kingpin bolt is .624″ so I had to ream the bushing to .625″ to allow the kingpin to fit. Fortunately my .625″ reamers have a .750″ diameter shank which fits perfectly in the upper bore of the fork. This allows me to align ream the lower bushing to the upper bushing. I could not find my 3/4″ die holder so I used a 1″ die holder with a 3/4″ to 1″ bronze bushing that now appears to be seriously jammed in my die holder. After reaming I installed the top bushing and took a measurement of 4.496″ between the bushings which gives me .002″ clearance between the fork and the fishmouth.

Fork

The fork cleaned up nicely in preparation for painting. I half expected to find a crack or two but was pleasantly surprised to find no cracks. It is quite different from later forks. It is 3/4″ wider and has 7/16-20 UNF nuts welded in the top to accept the handlebar mounting bolts. I used a 7/16-20 UNF eyebolt from an old Plymouth Barracuda to hang the fork for painting. The horizontal braces were not painted green underneath so I suspect they were added when Jim Cavanaugh upgraded the bike.

The bottom bushing was a heavy press fit which will require reaming to accept a kingpin bolt. I was able to push the top bushing in with my thumbs and it accepts a standard size kingpin bolt nicely. I am not surprised that the fork will not fit onto the frame fishmouth without some work. The fishmouth measures 4.494″ across the mounting bosses. The fork measures 4.434″ inside the new bushings. I will have to reduce the flange thickness of each bushing by 1/32″ to get this to fit. The next problem is the welded on bungs with the bores each measure .660″ thick. They need to be .625″ or thinner to accept the FB1012-6 bushings correctly. .660″ means the kingpin bolts will lock up on the bung instead of the bottom of the bolt shoulder. All these bad dimensions explains why I see so many hammer hits on the fork. Instead of correcting these issues someone just beat the fork on. Thinning the bushing flanges and extending the kingpin bolt shoulders even more on my extended kinpin bolts will fix this problem. What is truly amazing is neither Nerthercutt or Rokon ever figured this out. Instead they jammed set screws into the kingpin bolt threads to keep them from backing out. Looks like they gave up in 1986 when they switched to the bearing head steering forks.

3/8-24 UNF nuts are welded into the bottom of the tubes to accept the chain adjusting bolts. The brake anti rotation bracket was welded on about 5 degrees out of alignment which wore one of the brake shoes crooked. I straightened the bracket with a crescent wrench.

Fork bushing alignment

I suspected the front fork was tweaked after how bad I saw the fishmouth was messed up. After I removed the bushings I checked for alignment by attempting to slide a A1169 3/4″ axle through both bores. Sliding the axle in from the top I found it would only go into the bottom bore by about 1/4″.

Sliding it in from the bottom was much worse. It was off front to rear and side to side by almost 1/4″. I suspect it got tweaked when the top kingpin bolt fell out putting a huge force on the bottom bolt.

I used the axle to straighten the bottom bore by putting the fork on the shop floor and standing on it in different directions. It took a lot more force than I expected. Finally the axle went straight through both bores. I would have used a FB1012-6-Delrin plastic bushing in the bottom if I had not been able to bend the fork back in alignment.

Kingpin bushings

The kingpin bushings are BOST-BRONZ oil impregnated sintered bronze bushings part number FB1012-6. These are the equivalent of my FB1012-6-841 bushings. The top one was not too bad but the bottom one is cracked and wore out at an angle due to the bottom hole of the fishmouth tapped at an angle. If I had not been able to fix the bottom threaded hole I would have used one of my FB1012-6-DELRIN bushings on the bottom because it will tolerate quite a bit of misalignment since the plastic can flow a bit. I will use FB1012-6-660 bronze bushings top and bottom because they hold up better than the 841 sintered bushings.

West Bend 82001 rod bolts

I did not rebuild the West Bend 82001 go kart engine because it did not need it. I did replace the rod bolts with 7/8″ long Torx bolts. I am not comfortable with the original 5/8″ long bolts. The Torx bolts are grade 8 just like the originals but they feel a lot more positive when I torque them to 90 inch pounds. I have run into WB820s with rounded out hex head bolts. They are difficult to remove.

West Bend 82001

The 82001 engines came with a single 1/32″ thick head shim. Jim Cavanaugh said he put in another head shim to reduce compression to make the engine easier to start. This engine did have 2 1/32″ thick head shims but was still difficult to pull over. I stuck in another 1/16″ shim for a total of 1/8″. The go kart racers use electric starters and I can certainly understand why.

The extra 1/16″ head shim made it difficult to install the head tin. I had to do some minor trimming with my die grinder to get it to fit. I also had to drill the front engine mount to get the bolt in.

The Krylon Caramel Latte paint is a good color match but has a bit too much metal flake.

I did not paint the carb after stripping it since most of the original paint survived. There was no gold under the yellow paint on the elbow which makes sense because 82001s did not have elbows. I think the elbow is a Nethercutt casting not West Bend.

Filter base safety wire

The original air filter base is a mess since it was drilled off center. This is the best one I could find short of robbing another bike. I had to braze a hole in the middle that I drilled maybe 20 years ago before I figured out that I could use olive jar lids as tops. I used a A1399 base gasket, Wacker 30491 filter clips, 20-6620 15% Ethanol rated Tygon tubing, A1233 choke screws and the original screws that are drilled for safety wire.